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 Post Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2018 5:31 pm 
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The bike is a Honda Pan European ST1300 with linked brakes... but the method could be applied to any bike.

The brake bleeding starts


Inverted makes sense... might give it a go next time :)

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 Post Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2018 8:34 pm 
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True Horneteer
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I use one of those 'little bleeder' things with the non-return valve in the middle.


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 Post Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:24 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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I made up my own easy bleed with a proper alloy 1 way valve as I found the one on the easy bleeder to be crap and failed on the 2nd or 3rd use.
I find with that I can pump it at a rate which is fast enough to clear the air bubbles effectively before they can climb up the main hose.

But after watching that vid I've just had a devilishly good idea... (I think).

Use a bleed tube that is about twice as long as that one. Pump out as normal first with a short bleed tube to clear the old manky old fluid from the caliper, once lovely clean/clear fluid is coming through then switch to the extra long tube and hold that up by the master so that it overflows back into the reservoir. That way you could pump away as fast as it allows without fear of the reservoir running dry, without having to stop to re-fill it and without wasting loads of clean brake fluid. Your brake system would get a proper high flow purge which should carry away any hard to clear air bubbles.


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 Post Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 1:57 pm 
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True Horneteer
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Ingenious :clap

p.s. sometimes the little bleeder return valve doesn't work unless you prime it with a little brake fluid first.


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 Post Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 3:39 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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The one in the kit I had was a bit basic, just a ball bearing and sleeve.

So I picked up a couple of alloy non-return valves (from China) for about £1.99 and they have a proper spring loaded rubber diaphragm inside, so minimal pressure is required to open but they give a good positive return block. I also use a smaller than normal diameter hose as well, so you have to heat the end with lighter before pressing it over the bleed nipple, once done it stays on there until you want it to come off, had the one in the crappy kit fall off all on it's own many times.


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 Post Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 4:28 pm 
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Johnny English

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i always use " reverse brake bleeding" this is especially good if you drain the system to change the lines.

Needed
1 Syringe
1 tube
brake fluid

Fill syringe up with new brake fluid , connect to caliper bleed nipple using tube, open brake master cylinder, inject brake fluid into brake caliper, take 10 seconds

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jiWnc4fNGCo

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 Post Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 5:15 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Delboy does get things wrong sometimes, well quite often actually. :lol

In this vid, pressing the brake pedal does not open up the line to let the air go, the line will be open when ever the pedal is released, and so that is when the air could escape. Pressing the pedal causes a small back flush into the reservoir, and this can move air trapped under the plastic screen.


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 Post Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 5:21 pm 
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Victor Meldrew
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paulh0rnet wrote:
i always use " reverse brake bleeding" this is especially good if you drain the system to change the lines.

Needed
1 Syringe
1 tube
brake fluid

Fill syringe up with new brake fluid , connect to caliper bleed nipple using tube, open brake master cylinder, inject brake fluid into brake caliper, take 10 seconds


That's exactly what I did many years ago when I fitted braided lines to the Hornet.

For simply changing the fluid, I empty the master cylinder as much as possible without getting air into the system, fill with fresh fluid. Jam jar and plastic tube on the nipple, crack the nipple, pump and hold the lever, tighten nipple, release lever. And repeat, until clean fluid emerges. On both calipers, one at a time.

My VFR mate says this wouldn't work on his linked brakes, gets the dealer to do it. Can't see why though.

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 Post Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 9:28 am 
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True Horneteer
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knee_jerk wrote:
The one in the kit I had was a bit basic, just a ball bearing and sleeve.

So I picked up a couple of alloy non-return valves (from China) for about £1.99 and they have a proper spring loaded rubber diaphragm inside, so minimal pressure is required to open but they give a good positive return block. I also use a smaller than normal diameter hose as well, so you have to heat the end with lighter before pressing it over the bleed nipple, once done it stays on there until you want it to come off, had the one in the crappy kit fall off all on it's own many times.


Sound good - I'll have to get some of those valves :D


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 Post Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:53 pm 
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Johnny English

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knee_jerk wrote:
Delboy does get things wrong sometimes, well quite often actually. :lol

In this vid, pressing the brake pedal does not open up the line to let the air go, the line will be open when ever the pedal is released, and so that is when the air could escape. Pressing the pedal causes a small back flush into the reservoir, and this can move air trapped under the plastic screen.



vid is just to show the general idea of a back bleed, i could probably rip loads of how to vids apart online, but i have better things to do really :angel

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