Register    Login    Forum    Search    FAQ

Board index » Hornet 250 » General chat




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post Posted: Thu Oct 15, 2015 9:31 am 
Offline
Newbie

Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2015 11:10 pm
Posts: 4
So I know my 96 hornet should have a temp gauge instead of a fuel gauge. For some reason the gauge does nothing. It doesn't even move when the ignition is turned on.

So my question is which is the sensor provides the reading for this gauge? Is it, like my Speedo cluster suggests, an oil temp sensor? I thought the sensor in the sump was just an oil pressure sensor. Or is the thermostat in the radiator that changes the gauge? From what I can tell this just seems to be open circuit when below a temp and closed when the fan needs to turn on. Am I wrong?

These bikes are bloody hard to find manuals and wiring diagrams for being JDM. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really don't want my bike to cook as I just managed to fry my car last week :Bang


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 2:07 am 
Online
Moderator
User avatar

Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 1:13 pm
Posts: 577
Location: Kaohsiung, Taiwan
FinlayG wrote:
Or is the thermostat in the radiator that changes the gauge? From what I can tell this just seems to be open circuit when below a temp and closed when the fan needs to turn on. Am I wrong?

That's correct. this is just a simple bi-metal switch which closes/opens according to coolant temperature. It's definately not the sensor responsible for the cluster gauge.

On my bike I have a different dash anyway, which is connected to a separate additional coolant temperature sensor. Works fine...

But I'm not sure where exactly that oil temperature sensor should be located. You may take a look at the illustrated parts book here ...unfortunately it's in Japanese only. :( But it's for the early model years and maybe it can help you to figure it out.

_________________
Image
A redline a day keeps carbon away.

Image


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 1:58 am 
Offline
Newbie

Joined: Mon Jan 19, 2015 11:10 pm
Posts: 4
So for anyone else having a problem with their temp gauge, I figured it out (with a little help from a mechanic friend).

1)The sensor in the radiator controls the fan. Its an on/off switch basically

2)The temperature gauge sensor is not oil temperature the icon on the gauge cluster is misleading (it would have been very unusual if it was). The sensor in the sump is for your oil light.

3)The actual temperature gauge/light sensor is located in the radiator cap housing. If you look carefully there are 2 wires going into the back of it. One ground and one with approximately 5v on it. The 5v wire should have a strange connector that plugs onto your sensor. The sensor is screwed into the metal cap housing.


Testing your temperature gauge/light sensor and gauge cluster:
1)Check fuses (Although i honestly don't know if any of this is protected by a fuse because I can't find a wiring diagram and have figured this out manually)

2)Disconnect the +5V wire from the sensor and check it with your multi-meter while your ignition is on. If it doesn't have about 5V on it there is an issue with your electrical system

3)If that is all fine, check the ground terminal for corrosion (it was pretty bad on mine). For some reason the cap housing needs a separate ground loop even though it is connected to the metal frame. Don't ask me why :\
With the ignition system on, short the +5V to the metal radiator cap housing. This should make the gauge climb.
DO NOT short this for more than a couple of seconds as you can damage the electronics as there is no resistance to limit current.

Note: If the gauge does not move this may still be due to corroded ground terminals. Short the +5V and GND wires together to double check this.

4)If you have done everything up to this point and your gauge hasn't moved/light turned on then bad news... its buggered and time to buy a new cluster. Sorry :cry

5)If your gauge is fine then remove the sensor. Connect one probe of a multi-meter to the screw thread of the sensor and the other to the tip where the 5V wire connects. Measure resistance. Pour some boiling water into a container and dip the end of the sensor into the water. The resistance should change. If it doesn't change or your multi meter reads an open circuit then.... you guessed it the sensor is buggered :lol .

Hope this helps somebody at some point. I'd highly recommend getting a copy of a CBR250rr manual or similar. Most of the engine/cooling is similar.


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 8:08 pm 
Offline
Hornet Lord
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:46 pm
Posts: 681
Location: Manila, Philippines
on my bike the temp gauge normalize, after i replace the regulator / rectifier

before it was on and off with it's operation


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:47 am 
Offline
Hornet Warrior
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:43 pm
Posts: 178
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
I had a similar problem with mine..... and i did the checks as described above....

* I initially checked for voltage which appeared to indicate all was ok.... so i then checked the following...
* I disconnected the radiator / fan connection and shorted it to an earth..... nothing !.... the fan should have started but didn't.
* I then removed the tank to gain access to the connection on the underside of the radiator cap and shorted this out to an earth...still nothing.... the gauge should have moved.... but didn't.
* I then checked the fuses which are tucked in behind the left hand side panel.... (There's a black block with 4 fuses in it)... they were all fine.... however...
* All of the terminals were grey and oxidised.... so i used a spray electrical contact cleaner on the fuse box....the water temp sender unit....and the fan switch

...and then tested everything again..... Success !!!...everything worked perfectly... and all it took was a quick spray with the contact cleaner.
I can only assume that not enough of a connection was being made in all of the oxidised connections and when checking it with a test meter, it scratched away enough of this oxidisation to make a contact.....

Anyway.... just thought i'd throw my experience of this in there...

_________________
2008 Kawasaki Concours 14
1997 CB250-FV Hornet
.
.... Oh...and a 5.3lt V8 Chevy Truck !!


Top 
 Profile  
 
 Post Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:39 pm 
Offline
Hornet Lord
User avatar

Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2012 7:46 pm
Posts: 681
Location: Manila, Philippines
you may also want to check the connection on every wires for the temp gauge, i had a loose connection and temp gauge will suddenly drop down, toggled the wires and went back to normal


Top 
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 

Board index » Hornet 250 » General chat


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

 
 

 
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to: