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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:17 am 
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I have a Morgan carbtune and I am helping a friend to synchronize the carburetor. When I looked at the 250 carb I was not able to locate the vacuum ports to connect the carbtune hose. I have searched the forum but did not find any result. Can someone post a link for reference for Hornet 250 carb syn.


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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 1:39 am 
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Hornet Lord
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1 & 4 can be seen easily on the side of the cylinder head it has a philips screw as cover, # 2 is the one using the vacuum hose for fuel valve, and # 3 just check at the right side of # 2 and you should see a hex philips type screw as cover...

I'll try and post a video for you if you like?


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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 2:22 am 
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That would be great if you can post a picture or video.

Would you also know the air/fuel mixture screw setting?


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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 4:18 am 
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S750WP wrote:
That would be great if you can post a picture or video.

Would you also know the air/fuel mixture screw setting?


I'll check later or tom. coz engine is still hot from a short ride...

at the mean time this might help

this for cylinder # 1, for cylinder # 4 it is on the other side of the bike, the right side when you are sitting on it

Image

this is for cylinder #2

Image

for cylinder # 3 just take a look for the hex type nut under the carb boot #3 i guess...

for cylinder #4 just refer to pic number 1, that should be at the right side of the bike same spot

if you still can't find it, let me know I'll post a vid...


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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:31 am 
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There are some pics in the 600 section in FAQ's that should help. Looks like the 250 and 600 have similar set ups.

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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 8:52 am 
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Hornet Lord
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any updates s750wp?


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 Post Posted: Sat Dec 21, 2013 8:24 am 
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Going to do it tomorrow will update the status again


Last edited by S750WP on Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2013 11:30 am 
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Today I did the carburetor synchronization for my friends Hornet 250, its a real pain to access to vacuum port #3. In the end I took off the air box and remove the plug which broke off as soon as I pulled it off with my pliers.

Anyway I connect a 4mm ID silicone hose to port #3 permanently and attach the hose to the fuel pet cock directly (easier to connect the carb syn tool hose next time).

I removed the original hose from port#2 (with a tee joint to the petcock) and connect a new 4mm ID silicone hose directly to the vacuum switch.

Connected up the carbtune to the respective hose (#1 and #4 I need to use a adapter). The adjustment screw is very difficult to access except for the left one, and I have to use a very long phillip screw driver to tune.

I match the vacuum of carb #3 and #4, then carb#1 and Carb#2, finally carb#1&2 to carb#3 and 4.

Here is the picture of the result

Image

Image

Image

Image


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 Post Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 4:19 am 
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Hornet Lord
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can you post a pic of what screws you are adjusting to sync the carbs?

will they be like 3 adjustment screws with philips type head?

if it is not a trouble please post them up here...


thanks....


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 Post Posted: Tue Dec 24, 2013 5:01 am 
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Hornet Warrior
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Location: Perth, Western Australia
Can you tell me if you've noticed any big difference in how the bike runs? Rev a little smoother? less vibrations? etc. I'll be doing mine soon, would like to know what I could possibly expect to achieve.


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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 10:15 am 
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forcemajeure wrote:
can you post a pic of what screws you are adjusting to sync the carbs?

will they be like 3 adjustment screws with philips type head?

if it is not a trouble please post them up here...


thanks....


Image

I took the picture from this forum, the green color markings are the screws for carburetor syn.

Sitting on the bike left to right, the adjustment screw on the left hand side is adjustment for carb #1 and #2, the right hand side is for adjusting carb #3 and #4, the middle one is to adjust carb #1 and #2 to match with carb#3 and #4. The adjustment screw is phillip head type.

On the bike itself, the adjustment screw is very difficult to access except for the left one. I have to use a very long phillip screw driver and work from the front, by twisting the throttle slightly so the adjustment screw is at the correct angle to fit in the screw driver for adjustment.

Before the synchronisation I adjust the air/fuel mixture screw, mark in red to 2.5turns out as per CBR250 spec.


Last edited by S750WP on Wed Dec 25, 2013 11:05 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 10:33 am 
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MikeyAC92 wrote:
Can you tell me if you've noticed any big difference in how the bike runs? Rev a little smoother? less vibrations? etc. I'll be doing mine soon, would like to know what I could possibly expect to achieve.


After carb syn the engine runs smoother compare to before. The rev same as before and fluctuate between 1500-1600rom at idling which seems to be normal.


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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 11:17 am 
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Hornet Lord
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S750WP wrote:
forcemajeure wrote:
can you post a pic of what screws you are adjusting to sync the carbs?

will they be like 3 adjustment screws with philips type head?

if it is not a trouble please post them up here...


thanks....


Image

I took the picture from this forum, the green color markings are the screws for carburetor syn.

Sitting on the bike left to right, the adjustment screw on the left hand side is adjustment for carb #1 and #2, the right hand side is for adjusting carb #3 and #4, the middle one is to adjust carb #1 and #2 to match with carb#3 and #4. The adjustment screw is phillip head type.

On the bike itself, the adjustment screw is very difficult to access except for the left one. I have to use a very long phillip screw driver and work from the front, by twisting the throttle slightly so the adjustment screw is at the correct angle to fit in the screw driver for adjustment.

Before the synchronisation I adjust the air/fuel mixture screw, mark in red to 2.5turns out as per CBR250 spec.



thanks for the clear explanation... to be honest that picture is my carb sitting on our dirty kitchen...

next time I'll buy a morgan carb tune... gonna try cleaning carbs and sync them on my own... that will be after 1 or 2 years... or when the bike needs a tune up...


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 Post Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:36 pm 
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forcemajeure wrote:

thanks for the clear explanation... to be honest that picture is my carb sitting on our dirty kitchen...

next time I'll buy a morgan carb tune... gonna try cleaning carbs and sync them on my own... that will be after 1 or 2 years... or when the bike needs a tune up...


You also need straight and Tee joint (4mm OD) and extra vacuum hose (4mm ID)


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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 3:04 am 
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Hornet Warrior
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my mechanic cleaned carb two times within 6 months period and yet she's coughing and RPM needle was not steady so i decided to clean it my self
i didn't take whole thing out but while its hanging on by two accelerator cables i wanted to check whether fuel/air screws have 2.5 round out or not

guess what, 2 had only one round out and other two had almost 2 rounds out :Bang
i turned all 2.5 rounds out and checked it

as soon as i started RPM went almost 6k up :eek i hope you understand what my mechanic have done before :lol
then i reduced RPM to 1.5-2k, then had a ride around the town

now she is fine, no cough, idle RPM is steady... unfortunately i couldn't find sync tool to balance all 4 carbs... but so far everything runs fine :clap


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 Post Posted: Mon Feb 03, 2014 9:52 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Location: East Flanders, Belgium
KANE wrote:
my mechanic cleaned carb two times within 6 months period and yet she's coughing and RPM needle was not steady so i decided to clean it my self
i didn't take whole thing out but while its hanging on by two accelerator cables i wanted to check whether fuel/air screws have 2.5 round out or not

guess what, 2 had only one round out and other two had almost 2 rounds out :Bang
i turned all 2.5 rounds out and checked it

as soon as i started RPM went almost 6k up :eek i hope you understand what my mechanic have done before :lol
then i reduced RPM to 1.5-2k, then had a ride around the town

now she is fine, no cough, idle RPM is steady... unfortunately i couldn't find sync tool to balance all 4 carbs... but so far everything runs fine :clap


That's why we like to do things ourselves I guess :D.

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 Post Posted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 1:46 pm 
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I have the same problem too, will get it done tomorrow. Useful tips for newbie like me. Cheers


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 Post Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 7:58 am 
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Hornet Warrior
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I found it easy to get access to the screws by removing the choke rail from the carburetor, gives you a little more room for the screw driver.


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 Post Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2016 3:20 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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if you turn the a/f screw counter clockwise will that let more air in?


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