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 Post Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:57 pm 
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After much hammering with mini chisels and drifts and even though it was half way off, i decided to have a go cutting the bearing off. (Not my idea.. saw it on the tinternet)

Purchased some dremmel type to stick in my regular drill. (I don't have a Dremmel)Image

Wow these work very well !!
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How low dare you go... ? Steady hand required here... touch the stem and it's trashed.
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Getting lower...
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Ok... loosing my bottle now.
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Nicely frozen using an inverted can of Poundland air duster. (Also helps remove stuck exhaust studs)
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Insert chisel and give it a wack... CRACK ! and off she slides Image

A bit more shaping creates a nice drift to help install the new bearing. Place inverted on top of the new bearing to prevent its cage from being damaged when drifting bearing on stem. Then simply remove without any fear of it getting stuck.
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This was a trial run as it were... as I'm fitting a set of tripple tree clamps and top yoke from a later model which are in mint condition. The bearing that I removed was from the original stem which I won't be using.

The cutting discs are brilliant and strangely enough do not create any sparks when used in a regular drill so visibility is good. Also I only used the one disc which still has plenty of life in it yet. (I was expecting these mini discs to regularly break)

Due to the fine work required the wieght of the drill was rested on a block of wood so all I had to do was pivot it forward onto the bearing. Very easy to control and with absolutely no damage to the stem... so will be employing this method on the replacement clamps.

Hence the Ignition bolt removal.

I had no success hammering a torx bit in... the sizes i had were either too loose or way to tight, so decided to drill the heads off.

Once the heads and ignition are off there's plenty of thread to grip with a pair of pliers.
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For anyone considering drilling... the remaining studs come out very easily.
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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 2:45 pm 
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Needs to get out more!
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Well done :clap

As you know I used a cold chisel and a torx bit - but this just goes to show that there is more than one way to skin a cat. :D


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 5:25 pm 
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Cheers Hoon :)

Not quite sure how the Torx bit sizing works but the two sizes which were remotely close were a T40 and T45. The T40 would not grip and the T45 looked way to big, so rather than overly shock the ignition barrel by trying to hammer in the T45 in (which i doubt would have gone in anyway as it was clearly over sized) I chose to drill them heads off. :)

P.s. Will be replacing them security bolts with stainless allen head bolts and blue loctite (so they don't come loose) then i'l be filling the heads with molten plastic (or similar) which could be dug out if the top yoke was on the workbench but awkward enough for someone on the street disengaging the steering lock and wheeling the bike away to Ebay parts heaven.

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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 15, 2017 9:32 am 
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Sounds good - filling the heads is a nice idea :D


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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 3:02 pm 
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Hornet Lord

Joined: Mon Sep 23, 2013 11:39 am
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Location: Coventry/Sometimes Blackburn
I tried using a drill bit similar to a anti clockwise drill bit but that just kept drilling...ended up using a cold chisel and a hammer to undo it and then just undid the rest by hand. I've just used a cheapo allen head bolt that i fully expect to fall apart if anyone looks at it funny.

Planning to rebuild the bike at some point so didn't bother doing things "properly"


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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 10:09 pm 
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Reassembled the front end Sunday and road it to work today, handles like new :)
The additional 5mm offset built into those 2000+ yokes is noticeable especially when cornering hard, also she never shook her head today, will try harder tomorrow :angel

Just a few pics in case it helps future Hornetiers doing a search.

Not a difficult job, just a lot to de-assemble / re-aasemble and suspend in mid air!
Hoping when the time comes the Viffer will be less troublesome due to lamps and clocks being independent of the yokes.


I never cut the donor stem bearing off as it drifted off easier than the original.
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I never had a suitable tube to use as a bearing drift, so i used some box section with an insert to centre it. Being quite weighty i simply used it as a slide hammer rather than use a hammer.
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The old race used to drift on the new tapered bearing seated itself on the stems shoulder, this was easily released turning a screw driver in the pre cut section. :Pray
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Slight miss match in colours but IMO they suit my girls colour scheme. I believe that bottom yoke is from a faired model. Both yokes are in great condition. :love
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 Post Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 1:03 am 
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Hornet Lord
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Nice work. Came out very well


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 Post Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 6:42 pm 
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bud wrote:
Nice work. Came out very well


Thanks bud :)

I have to say the handling feels so much better with them 2000+ clamps (No longer feels squirrely) I thoroughly recommend the mod to any 98-99 owners fitting new head set bearings.



I think that she's also pleased cos she don't shake her head anymore.

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