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 Post subject: PROJECT 'RESURRECTION'
 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 2:53 pm 
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Hi guys - I've been working on my Hornet rebuild project for what seems like ages - I'm going to start posting up pics of the strip down and the build.

The objective is to restore the bike to A1 condition which due to the frankly terrible cosmetic state of the bike has necessitated a complete strip down (including carb strip down) repairing/replacing components, new paint job (including repainting frame), re-shim of valve clearances, and finally a few relatively minor mods to mark the bike out as my own - I'm thinking here of the addition of a couple of new items of bodywork - including a Hornet Cup tail unit and belly pan, new exhaust can, new indicators and ditiching the rear-sets and replacing them with after market items, after market brake/clutch levers, new mirrors, braided brake lines - plus I'm planning on painting the engine, headers, swing arm, clocks and fork lowers black and fitting some fork boots - I haven't decided on a colour for the tank and tail yet - but seeing as I'm thinking of something subtle and contemporary I'm looking for unusual, muted metallic colours etc.

I'm gonna kick of with some pics I tarted up on photoshop for your viewing delectation :angel - the pictures of the build will be more straightforward so you can see what I'm actually doing clearly.

Let the fun and games commence . . . :D

Image1 TITLE by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image2 BACKSTORY by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image3 BACKSTORY by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image4 BACKSTORY by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image5 ATROCIOUS by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image6 BLIMEY by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image7 the heart by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image7 REBUILDING by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 3:26 pm 
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I love the captions on each photo, builds up the story! :lol

Looking forward to seeing this progress!


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 4:17 pm 
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jolyjoe321 wrote:
I love the captions on each photo, builds up the story! :lol

Looking forward to seeing this progress!


Ha! Yeah - there are gonna be lot's of twists and turns in this story - with highs and lows and hopefully a happy ending! :lol


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 6:16 pm 
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Good work on the 'magazine article' style thread - maybe you can sell it to back street heroes? :) .

Good luck with resto, keep the updates coming thick & fast!
Makes me feel like I'm doing it too, without actually doing anything. :angel


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 7:29 pm 
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Cheers Knee-Jerk! :D

Yeah - hopefully by putting a bit of effort into the presentation I can make an entertaining thread for everyone - although I'd probably have to get the angle grinder out and design and weld my own frame to get 'Back Steet Heroes' interested :eek :lol

Will be posting up more pics soon :D


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 9:44 pm 
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Looks like it needs a bit of a clean up that's for sure.
Get things powder coated as it will be a much better and harder wearing finish. Stainless steel bolts makes it look better to.

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 10:49 pm 
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woodyeee wrote:
Looks like it needs a bit of a clean up that's for sure.


No need to be polite mate - it looks like a pile of sh*t lol! :puke :lol

Yeah - will definitely look into the powder coating - and yes - definitely a new set of Stainless bolts!

When the engine get's painted black I'm thinking of buying a replacement stainless stud kit for the crankcase/clutch/ignition cover etc to really set it off.


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 11:20 pm 
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Image5 wiring by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image2 carbs out by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image4 RAD by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image3 FAN SHROUD by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image6 REMOVING THE HEADERS by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image7 EASY DOES IT by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
ImageEXHAUST PORTS STUD by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr


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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 8:41 am 
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The peoples republic of fleabay actually gave me a radiator for free.
It came with a few fins pre-bent, some of the fins not being fully seated, the ports for some of the pipes at slightly off angles and the mounting point bent. I created a fuss and they ended up refunding the full amount in return for positive feedback.

I've since had the radiator tested and it holds pressure fine. The other issues are easily sorted out. Should find out for sure when I fit it in the net coupla months.


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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 11:58 am 
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Thanks for the info anz243k :D - I'll take a punt on the Chinese rad - at the price they are seling them for it has to be worth it - plus the successful pressure test you had commissioned sounds encouraging.


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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 2:27 pm 
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I bought a Chinese rad not to long ago, it was cheap and it's perfect :D

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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 2:32 pm 
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woodyeee wrote:
I bought a Chinese rad not to long ago, it was cheap and it's perfect :D


Excellent! That's reassuring :D


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:23 pm 
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Image1 EXHAUST PORTS PAIR VALVE STUD copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
ImageHEADERS 3 copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image3 HEADERS 2 copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image2 HEADER STUDS copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image4 HEADLIGHT OFF by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image5 REAR SET by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image7 ENGINE OUT 1 by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image8 SIDE VIEW PLUS WHEELS copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image9 REAR SIDE VIEW MINUS WHEELS copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
Image10 ENGINE REMOVED by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
ImageWS FRAME REAR VIEW copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr


Last edited by HOON98 on Tue Oct 25, 2016 7:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:39 pm 
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That oil cooler is so ugly... but might it look good with the removable part painted bright red, or yellow?
Then file the tops of those fin like casting lines and polish then. It'll look like superchargers do in some car engine bays.

What's your plan with the engine... actually what's your plan with the whole bike, taking it back to stock or going for a custom look?


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 1:57 pm 
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knee_jerk wrote:
That oil cooler is so ugly... but might it look good with the removable part painted bright red, or yellow?
Then file the tops of those fin like casting lines and polish then. It'll look like superchargers do in some car engine bays.

What's your plan with the engine... actually what's your plan with the whole bike, taking it back to stock or going for a custom look?


Hi Knee-Jerk :D - yeah - the oil cooler is a bit of a carbuncle :puke - but the whole plot looks a lot cleaner minus the pair valve assembly!

Regarding the engine (and the rest of the bike for that matter) - to quote Amy Winehouse i'll be going 'Black to Black' mixed with hopefully some kind of subtle metallic colour for the tank and tail.:

The whole point is to come up with a more contemporary colour palette for the Hornet - the original late 90's bike with it's Chrome and 'Candy' metallic colours really dates the bike - which is fine if you want a historically faithful example of the bike - but personally I would like to bring the bike aesthetically up to date..

Either matt or satin black engine.
Black headers.
Black fork lowers.
Black swingarm.
Black frame.
Black clocks casing.
Black after market mirrors.
Black brake/clutch levers.
Black after-market rear sets.
Black headlight rim.

I'm planning on a muted, modern metallic colour for the tank and tail - either one of those nice Audi/BMW graphite/gun-metal colours from Halfords, or maybe something more interesting like a subtle burnt orange or fawn metallic.

The front mudguard will be black.

Wheels will be matt black (I've toyed with the idea of different coloured wheels - light gold or something but decided it would be over-kill and would detract rather than add to the looks).

Regarding the custom look - I'm going to be going for a relatively light customisation - I'm planning on replacing the standard tail unit with a Hornet cup item to give it a single seat look - plus I'm planning on replacing the standard rear tail light with a couple of round rear tail/brake lights.

I'm also planning on fitting a Hornet cup belly pan which I'm thinking of painting matt/satin black.

Other aesthetic changes will include some retro style fork boots and the aformentioned after market mirrors (either conventional or bar-end) and levers and mini indicators.

I'll be losing the standard can and chrome shroud for a Black Widow end can.

Suspension: Hagon progressive springs at the front and a standard OEM shock for the rear which I got cheap from Italy.

I'm going to fit the original can and tail unit for intitial testing and carb set up (I'm rebuilding the carbs) and the MOT - if everything is hunky dory I'll then fit the after-market can and tail unit.

I'll also be fitting an after-market fly screen - one of those small tinted ones - not one of the larger more practical hideous ones.

At the end of all this If things turn out well and funds allow I might remove the clocks and replace them with a single, small round digital unit (probably a Koso or something). I'm also planning on fitting a small digital voltmeter (for keeping an eye on the electrics) and a gear shift indicator (not really necessary - just a bit of fun).


Last edited by HOON98 on Fri Oct 14, 2016 2:16 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 2:05 pm 
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Oh yeah - I've also got some black Renttec engine protector bars lying around - had them for years but never fitted them and went for the crash bungs instead.

Not really seen engine bars and belly pans put together much - but I think along with the other changes I'm making will look ok - I think it will give the bike a tough urban 'survivor' look.

Also - as a bit of fun - I might attach a couple of small projector spot lights to the engine bars to complete the look. :D


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 2:52 pm 
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Wow, can't wait to see it! :)


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 3:18 pm 
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Thanks mate!

Hopefully it's going to live up to the description! :D


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 11:57 pm 
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ImageFRAME RUST 1 by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
ImageFRAME RUST 2 by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr


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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 7:54 am 
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With the time it takes, the hassle stripping it down and the mess getting it all sanded down, get the frame acid dipped/ blasted and powder coated. It will be a much better and tougher finish.

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 Post Posted: Sat Oct 15, 2016 9:38 am 
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woodyeee wrote:
With the time it takes, the hassle stripping it down and the mess getting it all sanded down, get the frame acid dipped/ blasted and powder coated. It will be a much better and tougher finish.


Absolutely, was just thinking the same thing.
Acid cleaned and then maybe even zinc coated for protection before painting/coating?


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 Post Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 11:06 am 
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The frame and engine didn't look too bad at first, it's only when it's stripped down that you realise how far it has gone. Hope mine isn't hiding anything like that.

I started my CB175 build thinking that I'd easily wire brush the frame down and repaint it, but I soon realised that this wouldn't be as easy as I thought. I got a local generic powder coating place to blast the frame, swing arm and centre stand clean and powder coat it for £80. They aren't a bike / vehicle specialist, typical industrial place, but happy to do it, turned it around in a week. The internal box sections obviously don't get treated, but it's been a couple of years now and no sign of rust returning. Some cavity wax rust proofer would probably be a good idea.

Before and after

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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 12:35 pm 
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Hi guys - thanks for the excellent advice - I'll definitely be taking a look at the cavity wax Richard - excellent looking frame by the way :D

Regarding the frame - I think you are all totally right regarding the powder coating - absolutely 100% stone cold right!

However . . . :angel

I've been enjoying the 'craft' aspect of rebuilding the Hornet - so I'm enjoying stripping the frame myself and painting rather than powder coating etc. - yeah it definitely takes a long time but I'm enjoying the 'hands on' aspect. I've also read some really good reports on the Simoniz 'Tough Paint' from fellow bikers who have used it on frames, swingarms etc.

Although it will never be as good as powder coating I reckon I can achieve acceptable results in terms of durability and finish if I spend a bit more time than usual on it and build up multiple thin coats.

I've done my research and am going to apply etch primer to the bare steel and then go in with the tough paint and finish it all off with a decent application of clear coat.

Like you guys I would always recommend powder coating to anyone contemplating a build in terms of speed and durability - but I've got time to kill on this project and am enjoying the 'in-house' experience where I deal with as many of the jobs myself and learn new-skills/buy new tools in the process. :D


Last edited by HOON98 on Mon Oct 17, 2016 7:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 7:34 pm 
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I think if you're not going to get the frame acid dipped to de-rust thoroughly you at least need one of these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLaBFkeHG0A


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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 7:49 pm 
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WTF! It's like something out of Star Wars! :eek

Surely that can't be real? :eek

Regarding rust removal - I bought a rust removal chemical from Halfords which you dilute in water so that you can create a parts dip - the reviews seem pretty good - including one from a guy who used it to de-rust the interior of his motorcycle fuel tank - so i'll be dipping the frame, fuel tank and other parts before etch priming and painting :D


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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:12 pm 
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Yeh, sounds like a light sabre!

That de-rust dip sound a good idea, I didn't know you could get that for home use - top marks. :)


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 Post Posted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 8:53 pm 
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You can also use brick acid for rust removal.

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:44 am 
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Or even acid based ( as opposed to bleach ) toilet cleaner, got a lot of rust out of a fuel tank by using Harpic Power Plus. Basically a weak solution of HCL, with added detergent.

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:35 am 
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Quote:
That de-rust dip sound a good idea, I didn't know you could get that for home use


Yep - I've got a lot of rust to shift so it's going to get a really good test! :D

Quote:
You can also use brick acid for rust removal.


Thanks - i'll check that out - never heard of it - sounds interesting :D

Quote:
Or even acid based ( as opposed to bleach ) toilet cleaner, got a lot of rust out of a fuel tank by using Harpic Power Plus. Basically a weak solution of HCL, with added detergent.


Wow - never hear of that either! Will definitely give it a go :eek Thanks!


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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 10:36 am 
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ImageCARB ASSEMBLY TOP copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
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ImageCARB BODY JETS 2 copy by Hoon Ninetyeight, on Flickr
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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 1:18 pm 
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Fantastic project Hoon!

I'm learning a lot from your experiences (both good and bad) and can't wait to see the finished bike - good luck!

I stripped down a carb on an old bike, and the brass jet screws were a complete pain! Why do they make them brass, by the way??

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 2:26 pm 
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Cheers JimBob :D

Yeah - hopefully it will be interesting for everyone - I'm learning tons myself about carbs and fuelling, the engine, special tools, metal, electrics, paint etc - which is one of the reasons I started the project - it's a great way to learn bike mechanics.

I'm also trying to make the build as economically viable as possible - which means finding the cheapest deals on new parts and consumables (while not sacrificing quality) - as the build progresses hopefully you'll be able to see where you can save a few quid on parts :D

Regarding the brass jets - from what I've read brass machines finer (smoother) than alternative metals like aluminum which results in a better quality surface - which is important in parts which need to be machined within very fine and minute tolerances - like carb jets.


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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 6:04 pm 
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Enjoying your Hornet restoration thread Hoon its always good to see a Hornet brought back to life :)

I've also been busy lately doing much the same with a Suzuki GpP100 that's been lurking in the shed since forever. I'm currently doing the fork seals (trying to make a damper rod holder tool) and browsing for café racer parts such as handle bars, seats ect... I'm aiming for something like Definitely going to stick rubber gators on it :)

link is page three on another GP 100 build thread which might be of interest to you as he too uses a rust remover and strips and paints the frame himself. :)

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 Post Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2016 9:56 pm 
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Someone ought to tell that chap in the GP100 thread that Halfords 'Fuel Resistant' lacquer isn't fuel proof, complete waste of space. Ask me how I know ..... :(

Only DIY solution for us rattle can users is two pack lacquer in a can. This stuff does work. Can contains two separate compartments, you pull a tab on the base to mix the two components, then use it all up within a day or so.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROXL-500ML-2K-Clearcoat-SR-UV-Petrol-Resistant-Lacquer-/161822845183?hash=item25ad64a8ff

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 Post Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 1:34 am 
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Hi Biggabit - pleased that you are liking the thread mate :D Cheers for the link - very relevant to my situation! :D

Post up some pics of the Suzuki when you get a chance :D

Richard - thanks for the info and the link on the fuel tank lacquer - I was looking at the Halfords tank lacquer only the other day but will now avoid - cheers for the warning. I've heard of the two-pack paints and lacquers and understand it's the kind of stuff the pros use - so will definitely check out the link - thanks :D


Last edited by HOON98 on Wed Oct 19, 2016 2:12 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 1:34 am 
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 Post Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 5:24 pm 
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 Post Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 5:56 pm 
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About the TPS - you might not need to worry about it.
The FCR on my DRZ has one and it plugs into the ECU. A common mod for the SM crowd is to buy an aftermarket version of that carb (as the DRZ SM has a cheaper/smaller carb as standard), anyway... these FCR carbs did not come with a TPS but once installed you couldn't tell the difference.
One of the main men who tunes these engines (in the US) said his dyno has resolution down to approx 1/4 hp and it could not see the difference with connected or unplugged.

So it might be worth giving it a try without it.
I guess the TPS does more on a fuel injected bike but on a carb'd bike it can only adjust the timing a little so I suspect it makes very little difference.


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 Post Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 8:50 pm 
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Thanks Knee-Jerk! :D Yeah that's definitely food for thought - would be great if I can just ditch the thing :D


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 Post Posted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 10:50 am 
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