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 Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2016 10:25 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Hi guys,

As part of my restoration project I'm going to be checking and potentially re-shimming my 1998 Hornet 600's valve clearances (depending on the results of the clearance check).

I'm hoping that this thread will prove to be useful for fellow forum members who are looking to improve their service and repair skills (like myself) and who wish to check/adjust their clearances in the future - so if any of the more mechanically experienced and knowledgeable members (you know who you are! :D ) see any bad practice or mistakes I will amend the thread in order to show best practice - as I don't want to mislead fellow Hornet owners! So if you see anything amiss please shout out! :D

I will be following the Haynes manual in combination with the Honda shop manual to ensure that the procedure and data supplied are correct.

As you will see - I will be checking the valve clearances with the engine out of the bike - so I won't be showing people how to remove fuel tanks, HT leads etc - but then if you are confident enough to be contemplating checking and possibly adjusting your valve clearances these tasks should not be an issue for you anyway.

As you can see from the title pic above I'm going to bling up the photographs a bit with an attempt at some graphic design and some funky text etc to make the thread as attractive as possible to look at.

Thanks for your attention :D

Let the fun commence . . . :hb


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 Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2016 11:23 pm 
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:clap :clap

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 Post Posted: Wed May 11, 2016 11:45 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Cheers Steve! :D


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 Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 7:31 pm 
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nice one!

However, I'm going to move this thread to the FAQ section, as it sounds as though it should be preserved for eternity.................

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 Post Posted: Thu May 12, 2016 11:34 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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LittleInsect wrote:
nice one!

However, I'm going to move this thread to the FAQ section, as it sounds as though it should be preserved for eternity.................


Cheers! I'd better make this thread really good then! :D


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 Post Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 9:18 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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HOON98 wrote:
LittleInsect wrote:
nice one!

However, I'm going to move this thread to the FAQ section, as it sounds as though it should be preserved for eternity.................


Cheers! I'd better make this thread really good then! :D

We have high expectations :)


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 Post Posted: Fri May 13, 2016 10:15 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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We have high expectations :)


First instalment coming very soon (concentrating on why we check/adjust valve clearances in the first place) - I'm just making sure all my notes are spot on :D


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 Post Posted: Fri May 20, 2016 2:28 am 
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Hornet Lord
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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 5:07 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Hi guys - next instalment in my valve clearance check guide - the actual valve clearance check itself! :D

Sorry for the delay - life got in the way etc.

If anyone spots anything missing/wrong in the guide pm me and i'll amend it. :D

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Last edited by HOON98 on Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 5:21 pm 
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Last edited by HOON98 on Wed Jul 20, 2016 3:57 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 5:28 pm 
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Last edited by HOON98 on Wed Jul 20, 2016 4:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 5:34 pm 
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Last edited by HOON98 on Wed Jul 20, 2016 4:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 5:42 pm 
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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 5:47 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Ok - so it looks like cams out and re-shimming is in order - which is good because that means that this valve clearance guide will go beyond just checking valve clearances but will also illustrate the re-shimming process.

Hope this has been as interesting for you guys as it has been for me - watch this space! :D


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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 7:56 pm 
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Excellent :clap

Presumably if the cams are coming off one would re-shim the border line tolerances as well as those which are out of spec but where does one draw the line?

I mean...

If a gap has closed beyond spec does that mean that particular valve clearance is likely close again, in which case does one set it at the max clearance allowable?

A better question would be... how would a gap get bigger?

Thanks for this 'How To' will be checking mine this winter, decided to give the old gal a well earned rest this winter (now that I have the Viffer) and get her mechanically and cosmetically spruced up for the summer)

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 Post Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2016 9:08 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Quote:
Presumably if the cams are coming off one would re-shim the border line tolerances as well as those which are out of spec but where does one draw the line?


Hi Biggabit. Yeah - totally agree regarding re-shimming the borderline clearances with the aim of bringing them back into middling clearance.


Quote:
I mean...

If a gap has closed beyond spec does that mean that particular valve clearance is likely close again, in which case does one set it at the max clearance allowable?


Yeah - good question and something I'm going to look into.

Quote:
A better question would be... how would a gap get bigger?


Indeed! I'm looking forward to finding out the answer to that question! :D

Quote:
Thanks for this 'How To' will be checking mine this winter, decided to give the old gal a well earned rest this winter (now that I have the Viffer) and get her mechanically and cosmetically spruced up for the summer)


Excellent - glad you like the thread - the re-shim should be even more interetsing! :D


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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 11:39 am 
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Hornet Warrior

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Thanks for this guide! I'll definitely try to do it before I get the bike on the road again.

Stupid question, Is it possible to do this with the engine in the bike? I suspect not.

2nd question, if the engine is sat on the floor, is it sat at the same angle as it would be in the bike? Reason I'm asking is that would 'straight up' be the same when the engine is off the bike?
Also how did you support the engine when its out? can it just sit on its little legs on the sump or does there need to be some other support?


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 Post Posted: Wed Jul 20, 2016 2:39 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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Is it possible to do this with the engine in the bike? I suspect not.


Hi mate - yeah - actually usually you would check the clearances with the engine in the bike - there is no need at all to remove the engine for this job.

The only reason the engine is out of the bike in my guide is that I'm doing a rebuild and the engine was lying on the floor so I thought it would be a good opportunity to show the process without the frame and cooling hoses in the way etc.

All you have to do is remove your fuel tank, pop out the HT leads and then remove the valve cover (if I remember rightly it can be worth unbolting the rad so that you can move it forward very slightly to make it easier to remove/install the valve cover) - then you will be in able to do everything I have demonstratred above including removing the cams if you need to re-shim.

Quote:
2nd question, if the engine is sat on the floor, is it sat at the same angle as it would be in the bike? Reason I'm asking is that would 'straight up' be the same when the engine is off the bike?


Yeah - good point and something I checked out - as far as I can see it's at the same angle. I'm probably going to reshim with the engine back in the frame - so i'll check the clearance again and check the figures match up - but like I say - not something you have to worry about as you can do this job with the engine in the frame.

Quote:
Also how did you support the engine when its out? can it just sit on its little legs on the sump or does there need to be some other support?


Yeah - it sits on the legs which project out of the sump - very thoughtful bit of design - thanks Honda!


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 Post Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 7:16 pm 
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Hornet Warrior

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Thanks very much for the guide and the response mate!

I need to take the rad off at some point soon anyway so might do the whole lot then.

I did always wonder what the legs were for, but never thought they'd be strong enough to hold the engine's weight!


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 Post Posted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 10:24 am 
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Hornet Lord
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No worries mate - glad you found the guide useful - let us know how you get on with the valve check :D


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 Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 12:09 pm 
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Hornet Warrior

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Did you ever get round to reshimming?


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 Post Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 7:05 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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anz243k wrote:
Did you ever get round to reshimming?


Hopefully i'll re-shim in a month (or two) - I've er put the project on the backburner for a bit but am planning on mounting a renewed assault starting this month - watch this space :angel


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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:52 pm 
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Hornet Warrior

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Get on with it! :P

I need to do my valve check soon and so have been reading your guide.
Looks ok so far but taking the cams off is what scares me...getting them out of sync when putting them back in.


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 Post Posted: Fri Mar 03, 2017 5:34 pm 
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Hornet Lord
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anz243k wrote:
Get on with it! :P

I need to do my valve check soon and so have been reading your guide.
Looks ok so far but taking the cams off is what scares me...getting them out of sync when putting them back in.


lol! - I've got to paint the frame so I can mount the engine first! :angel

Yeah - it's good to be a bit scared before your first cam out job (I know I am :D ) as you have to be very meticulous 8o

A couple of key points I can think of off the top of my head are:

Regarding preserving timing - before you take the cams out make a mark on the cam chain and precise correspoding marks on the cam sprockets so that when you put the cams back in the sprocket teeth and the cam chain links are in precisely the same position as they were before you removed them.

Bolting back up - make sure that when you bolt the cam holders down you bolt them down gradually (with a properly set up torque wrench) in a criss cross sequence to avoid distorting the cam-shaft.

I'm going to get a shift on so hopefully my shim replacement guide will be up in the near future.


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